This is by far the best Greek island of them all. I almost don't want to talk about it; I want to keep it a secret for myself. This under-the-radar, magical jewel sits in the sparkling Aegean and is called Sifnos. This island truly has it all: pristine beaches, extraordinarily good restaurants, unique watering holes, secluded swim spots, and traditional shops; it’s the perfect mix.
We stepped off the ferry and were greeted by our hotel’s driver, who then took us to the beautiful Verina Astra. The moment we arrived, we felt instantly relaxed. The staff were wonderful, and the view was of endless blue, interrupted only by the blue and white monastery in the distance. The rooms are spacious, well thought-out, and private. With only 16 rooms and their fantastic restaurant, Bostani, where all the produce is grown in their garden (it’s open to everyone), plus a stunning spa, we could have lain by the pool the entire trip. But we tore ourselves away to explore what this delicious island had to offer.
Sifnos is full of lovely hidden villages to explore, but equally, it doesn’t feel like you are missing out if you don’t do anything at all. Wind-swept and salty-haired, we scooted all over, repeating the same refrain upon leaving: "That was the best meal we've ever had.” In Faros, there's Pelicanos right on the beach; in Platis Gialos, there's Omega3 where the fish is so soft it’s like butter. We made our way home via Appolonia and stopped at Taverna Chrisopigi for a nightcap. Cantina in Kastro is an absolute must and still one of my favorites to this day. There's a zero waste policy on the island too!
One of our most memorable evenings was at Kavos Sunrise Wine Bar in Kastro. The backdrop is stunning, looking down onto the bay. It’s a Cuban bar, serving extremely strong mojitos 🙃. The owner is by far the highlight - you can’t miss him. With absolutely no frills, writing on the walls, piles and piles and piles of rum bottles, cats everywhere - it’s quite something, and the vibe is 11/10. Just a short walk up from here is my favorite bar in the world, called Loggia. Unlike its neighbor, it’s slightly more upmarket but still very relaxed with the white-washed walls of the town behind reflecting the perfect sunset.
Finally, I must mention a visit to Theodorou Traditional Pastry Shop. It's like stepping back in time to what Greece must have been like in the 60s. Simple, steeped in history, oak-scented, newspaper-packaged; it was a sweet sensory delight. Finally, make sure you head to the town of Heronissos to visit Konstantinos, the oldest potter on the island, who can whip up a candlestick in 1 minute flat. His studio is called Keramika, and although he speaks literally no English, he has an aura that sums up this island. Delightful, heartwarmingly fuzzy, charming, full of a life well lived. No matter how many Greek islands you’ve visited or luxurious places you’ve stayed in the world, Sifnos really is in a league of its own.
As a child each summer our family would pack up the Volvo stationwagon. Allocated one bag each, we'd drive 9 hours south from Toronto, Canada to Little Compton, Rhode Island. I can't believe it was only nine hours. It seemed like ninety! Maybe it was all the fighting between siblings, arguments about taking wrong turns and the cigar smoke smothering us in the back seat! In any case, we'd arrive each summer for six glorious weeks of life by the ocean, summer friends and by the end of the summer, bare feet so conditioned we could walk on any surface without wincing!
Decades later, I find myself back living in North America and so it's been amazing to be back spending time in this beloved place. What I loved as a child is still there. A very rough and cold ocean, foaming waves and beautiful walks to the beach along quiet roads through wild rose bushes and fragrant sweet peas and honeysuckle. What I now appreciate are oysters or lobster most nights, falling asleep on the beach reading a book and catching up with those old friends who I spent so many important summers with over the years.
Here are my top tips in the area:
Head to the pretty town of Westport, Mass and enjoy fresh oysters, lobster rolls and clam chowder at Westport Sea Farms. There's no table service. Just order at the counter and find a picnic table overlooking the harbour.
For fantastic gifts and beautiful interiors I love The Cottage at Four Corners . Simon Pierce glassware, beautiful tableware and lovely baskets, linen and coffee table books. Oh, and grab a coffee or lunch next door at Groundswell .
Finally, try and arrive on a day when the Sakonnet Garden is open. This is one of the most famous, private gardens in all of New England and honestly deserves a whole story devoted to it. Check out the link to learn more. It takes about an hour to walk around and no matter how many gardens you may have visited, this is up there with the best!
